"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness . . ."
• Mark Twain
When I walked in the footsteps of General Edmund Allenby after entering the Old City of Jerusalem via the Jaffa Gate, I looked around and felt like I walked through some kind of time machine. Quite simply the area just inside the Jaffa Gate, much like the balance of the Old City has changed very little in the ensuing 100 years.
This is not quite true of the area surrounding Mark Twain's Boyhood Home as ante bellum Hannibal is quite different than the 2026 Hannibal. While the street that fronts is house contains other equally old buildings, the rest of the city while not necessarily of the 21st century is firmly rooted in the second half of the 20th. And the verisimilitude was not helped by a telescopic boom lift that was parked 15 feet from where I stood.
Twain's Boyhood Home: 1902 & 2026
I cropped the above photo to specifically include the whitewashed fence as it may be a metaphor for Mark Twain's life. According to the adjacent sign "Here stood the board fence which Tom Sawyer persuaded his gang to pay him for the privilege of whitewashing." Now after getting past the odd grammar, this could give somebody the idea that Twain used it as inspiration for the fence in The Adventures of Tom Sawyer. It gives me the idea that maybe somebody built it after the book was published.¹
Either way it reminded me of a thread that ran through a biography I had recently read by Ron Chernow, titled Mark Twain. Before reading it I had always thought of Twain as an everyman American: born into poverty who through hard work and creativity became quite successful and the most famous man in the world. I always assumed that his books and witty quotes showed a hard acquired wisdom that helped enable success.
What I didn't realize was that while he became financially successful due to his books and lectures, much of Twain's wealth came from his wife, who was heir to a rather large coal, lumber and railroad fortune. He then lived a ridiculously lavish lifestyle which when combined with terrible business instincts, led to him to declare bankruptcy. A bankruptcy that was softened by friendships with wealthy authors and businessmen including Henry Huttleston Rogers, a man who colluded with John D. Rockefeller to form Standard Oil (it's nice to have rich friends). A bankruptcy, that had him possibly illegally and definitely immorally transferring ownership of his books to his wife and that barely affected his spending habits.
In a way he was an everyman American, as he could never follow his own advice, learn from his own mistakes or reduce his own consumption.
Mrs. WitFoH independently agreed with my analysis, as after two days of non-stop Twain, when I asked her to share her thoughts, she replied "He seemed to have a little bit of grift in him."
Walking on the Floorboards that Twain Walked on.
Norman Rockwell, Whitewashing the Fence - Getting someone to to your job has become as American as apple pie.²
Twain even had his own orchestrelle
Apr 16, 2026
Footnotes:
¹ I'm not alone in this cynicism, as it appears Roadside America agrees with me.³
² In the previous century, hard work was the only common characteristic of the American success story.
³ An orchestrelle is a type of player pump organ. In addition to the music produced from the rolls, the operator’s hands are free to enhance play, adding expression and nuance by operating keys and various stops.
"Travel has no longer any charm for me. I have seen all the foreign countries I want to except heaven & hell & I have only a vague curiosity about one of those."
• Mark Twain